Fashion In The Age Of The Pandemic

Fashion In The Age Of The Pandemic

 As spring blooms in earnest, Jacqueline Scerbinski shared highlights of how the pandemic has affected spring fashions at a recent talk at the Southampton History Museum. A professor of fashion and marketing in the Business of Fashion program at Kingsborough Community College, Scerbinski has had her eye trained on fashion trends for decades.

She is a former retail executive for both Associated Merchandising Corporation and May Department Stores, where she was a corporate buyer covering markets in the U.S. and the Far East. After leaving the retail industry, she worked in the manufacturing sector as the national sales manager and stylist for a branded intimate apparel line. She brings her extensive industry background to the classroom.

“The past teaches us that times of great trauma can produce moments of great creativity,” said Scerbinski. “We’ve been through a lot of traumas over the past many years – great wars, recessions, and pandemics.”

She shared that after the 14^th century bubonic plague, we saw more body-conscious dressing, plunging decolletage (necklines) and lavish adornments. In 1947, right after the second World War, Christian Dior announced his new look: a symbol of regeneration with full skirts and fashion details that became the boom we saw in the 1950’s. And, after the oil crisis in the 1970’s, we saw a burst of color.

“Color is very important,” she explained. “It’s one of the first things we forecast out, before we get to fabric, silhouette or style, or anything.” This past winter featured very neutral and muted colors: a reflection of how people were feeling in the midst of the pandemic.

Pantone, the industry’s color standard, chose two extremes for 2021 to represent our gradual emergence from the pandemic: Pantone 13-0647 – Illuminating (yellow) and Pantone 17-5104 – Ultimate Grey. “The yellow demonstrates our hope for a better future today, while the grey shows the somber undertones of what we’re living through,” she said. At the same time, men will be wearing very vibrant colors.

There are other trends afoot.

As TV ads have teased, with the prominence of Zoom, many opted to look professional on top, while wearing sweats or pj’s (or sometimes less) on the bottom. April clothing sales were down 79% but sweatpants and leggings were up 80%.

“We were more concerned with feeling comfortable and not necessarily highlighting our bodies,” she explained. Sweaters became big sellers, with women embracing all-in-one oversized, elongated sweater dresses and turtlenecks: things that were easy to wear.

There has also been an uptick in sleepwear sales: “After the world hit a pause last March, people were home more and wanted to look nice. There were trends in buying a good-looking pair of pajamas rather than putting together something you had at home.” Today, it’s not unusual to find people wearing expensive – but comfortable – pj’s outside of their homes.

In addition to being vital to our health, masks have also become a fashion accessory. “You’ve begun seeing masks for every person and lifestyle on the runway, and some can be quite expensive, with matching fabrics used from high-end to less expensive brands.”

There’s a new focus on the eyes because of masks: Lipstick sales are down 15% but eye makeup is up 204%. (And false eyelashes are up 15%.)

Eyeglasses are also trending, with people who don’t need them for everyday use buying fashionable ones to match their outfits.

Even footwear has become relaxed: “Crocs have made a comeback, with both men and women. And you’re finding plain white sneakers, even in the couture market.”

Because of the economic impact of the pandemic, we’re reaching back in time. “We still want newness, but it feels inappropriate,” remarked Scerbinski. “We’re recognizing that timeless fashion holds its value and can be re-worn.” The resale of vintage and thrift goods is expected to rise from $28 billion a year to $64 billion by 2024.

Consumers are also going into their closets and doing a “fashion diet”: Rather than buying new outfits, they are mixing and matching outfits from what they already own. “The idea of a ‘capsule wardrobe’ is not a new concept. Most savvy women do this anyway. When Donna Karan came out with her line of “seven easy pieces” in the 80s, she said all you need are these seven pieces to mix & match and look good.”

Many companies are struggling to survive the pandemic economy and looking for new ways to survive. To stay afloat, brands and manufacturers are proposing later deliveries, meaning that new merchandise will be delivered closer to the season consumers will wear them, and fewer collections being brought to market.

To stay relevant, they are also finding creative ways to promote their products online, including virtual fitting rooms.

What’s possible after this pandemic? Is there still going to be an office dress code — perhaps one for Zoom calls?

After months of sweatpants and “Zoom sweaters,” Scerbinski doesn’t see us about to let go of comfort that fast. “Spring wear will be comfortable and casual, with not a lot of tailoring,” she noted. “Watch for “cozy” clothes including elastic waistbands, t-shirts, and loosely fitted, androgynous separates.”

To hear Prof. Scerbinski’s complete talk, visit https://youtu.be/hKj8yz5J4Ic.

To learn more about the Business of Fashion program at Kingsborough Community College, visit www.kbcc.cuny.edu.

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